A Note from a Cypripedium Growerby Carson E. Whitlow*Most people don't realize that the Cypripedium species are relatively transient, few living in mature climax forests. As the overstory develops and c loses, the plants die. Thus collecting under these circumstances is often the only hope for these plants to survive. For unusual or rare gene combinations, their loss could be forever. Collecting need not mean the removal of the plant from the breeding pool of the area, however, What is described below is a method of which a division of a plant can be made to (a) increase the number of growths, and (b) assure that removing a plant will not adversely affect the gene pool. The Cypripediums generally have a creeping rhizome. Each year the new growth appears a half inch or so from where it did the year before and relatively in a straight line. The first thing that must be determined is the direction n which the plant is growing. This can be done by putting a pencil or a piece of stick next to the stem (in the same hole, if possible), when the plant goes dormant in the fall. Be careful, though, not to put it in too far and injure the rhizome. The next year, one can tell which way the plant is growing by comparing where the new growth is, relative to the marking stick In the late fall, very shortly before the plant goes dormant, a cut is made in the soil, about an inch in back of the marker stick, about 3-5 inches deep, 4 inches long and square to the direction of growth. This should sever the front 1 ½" of the rhizome, with the new growth for next year from the rest. The timing is important because late fall is when the plant has its greatest reserve of energy. The following spring, the front portion will act as if nothing happened. However, the back section, separated from the growth, will react as if it had been injured. It will begin making up a growth bud (or occasionally several) from its reserves. Most often, nothing appears the first year, but the next spring a plant will come up. Depending on the strength of the back section and the number of buds it develops, the size will vary from near mature to small seedling. Hereafter, the back portion will act in a normal fashion. Now there are two plants, but they are the same clone. This method is also good for forcing the plant to branch and to produce more stems, where it wouldn't do it normally. It is best to leave the back portion undisturbed if possible, when making divisions, or if you wish to remove the front plant. However, it is generally recommended to leave the front portion alone until the growth of the back portion reaches maturity. Then remove the front with as little disturbance of the back as possible. When a plant gets large, it is often advantageous to thin it, since it seems to be self-limiting, perhaps from lack of nutrients. Remove the entire plant in the fall, clean off as much soil as possible, divide it primarily into front section 1 ½" or so, and replant them, either in the same location or elsewhere. The back portion should also be planted, even though it has no growths or just a few small ones. It will produce more. Be very careful of the new roots when dividing. They will not regrow. New roots will form next summer as the new growth for the following year is developed. Plants should be planted 6" or more apart. Another method to help increase the population is by self-pollinating the flowers. This "selfing" can be done with a plant's own pollen (especially advantageous for alba and other unusual forms) or with pollen from another plant of the same species. Hybridizing in the wild is not recommended. The pollen is removed with a toothpick or something similar and smeared on the stigmatic surface. After pollinating, I often cut off the pouch and tepals of the flower to make it less noticeable (and less attractive) to anyone who might come upon it. In the fall, the seed will be distributed naturally. By increasing the amount of seed available, it increases the chances for more seedlings and also enhances the possibility of further colonization. The seed can also be harvested and "planted". The key to planting is to disturb the soil as little as possible. Since seed germination and plant development are dependent on a symbiotic relationship with soil mycorrhizae, disturbing the soil would be detrimental. One method of planting is to push a nail, pencil or screwdriver at an angle, about four inches into the n watersoil. Seed is sprinkled into and around the mouth of the hole, where rain or wind wil take it to various depths in the soil; or an eyedropper of water can be squirted in to accomplish the same purpose. Likewise, the seed can be suspended in water, using a touch of liquid detergent as a wetting agent, and squirted into the hole with an eyedropper. A syringe has also been recommended to inject the seed into the soil. Since the seed is as fine as flour, it does not need too large a diameter needle. Whatever, the method, it should allow the seed to be distributed at depths between one and three inches below the surface. For best results, planting should be done in the fall when the seed ripens, and in close proximity to the mature plants (up to about six feet away). Similar ecological niches can also be planted in hopes of colonizing. Since it takes at least one year underground for the plants to develop their initial growth bud, don't expect to see anything for at least a couple of years. I want to make it very clear that I do not advocate general collecting or removal of plants from the wild. I have written these instructions to help increase the number of plants in the wild, and where a plant is to be collected, to maximize its possibility of remaining in the breeding pool by detailing techniques on making divisions. The Cypripediums are among the most difficult wild flowers to grow, as a group, and we have not perfected the techniques to grow them from seed as we have their sister genera. Thus, collections from the wild and propagations of these plants are the only source of plant material. Even for the specialist, losses occur due to fungi and disease. I hope that the techniques described will not give people the desire to go out and remove plants, but will, on the contrary, provide them with the knowledge of how to enhance the chances for these plants to suvive, reproduce, and multiply. * This article appeared in Missouriensis, The Journal of the Missouri Native Plant Society, Fall, 1980, Volume 2, Number 2, Pages 11-12 Page Updated: 2018 |